Sunday, July 18, 2010

Double Double Toil and Trouble: Magic Potions

Everyone is still looking for the Fountain of Youth.  We've just stopped looking in the jungle and started looking in dermatologist's offices and department stores.  I've taken pretty good care of my skin, but I'll admit that sometimes I'm not so faithful about using my skincare products EVERY morning and EVERY night as I should.  But as another birthday is looming, I've suddenly noticed some lines and horror of horrors, a sunspot (also horribly known as an age spot) that were not there last year.  That sent me into a panic and I went through my medicine cabinet in search of a quick fix.

The sad truth is that with skincare, there really are no quick fixes no matter what the salespeople tell you.  It's all about long-term and consistent use, something I've not been very good at as of late but have recently rededicated myself to.  Sure, you can find some fillers that work like shellac to instantly diminish the appearance of lines and wrinkles.  And a nice radiance serum or eye cream will instantly improve your skin's appearance and texture.  But if you want to look younger or at least prevent yourself from looking older, you need to get OCD about daily skincare.  Make that twice daily skincare.  So if I'm going to invest time, energy, and money in a regimen, I want to choose the best products and get the most bang for my buck, including some instant-gratification because, like most Americans, I'm impatient.

This will be a multi-part post on the magic potions that make up a good skincare routine.  I will give you my expert advice on what to look for in your skincare products depending on the three big factors: skin-type, skin concerns, and cost.  I'm also going to review the products that I'm trying as I build my own skincare routine and give you some helpful reviews and information about products I've worked with in the past.  I'm also happy to answer any questions you have about skincare in the comments.  I'm beginning with the beginning, cleanser and exfoliation.  I'll begin I'll then move on to discuss serums, moisturizers, eye creams, and a wild card category of skin care treatment extras that you won't use everyday but will see noticeable improvement from occasional use. 

Before I move on to cleansers, I'd like to tell you what I'm expressly excluding: toners.  Allegedly, toners should restore the PH balance of your skin.  A lot of people use them to try to catch any excess oil, makeup, or grime that you miss with the cleanser.  However, if you have a good cleanser, this is really not necessary.  Moreover, most of them have alcohol and are very astringent, which you should never use unless you have sever acne.  Even then, I would be cautious about stripping your skin of its natural moisture with astringents.  Now there are alcohol-free toners out there now, and if you think you must use a toner, I would recommend these.  However, I feel that this is generally an unnecessary extra step.  The mild reward simply isn't worth the money and time.

On to cleansers!  Unless you have sensitive skin, cleansers basically break down into three skin type categories: normal/combination, dry, and oily.  Combination skin is when you have an oily t-zone (forehead, nose, and chin) and dryness in the cheeks and eye area.  This skin type can sometimes be seasonal, as it is for me.  I used to have combination skin all the time, but as I get older, my skin is getting dryer and consequently, I only have combination skin during the summer when the pores tend to release more oil because of the heat.  I have normal to dry skin during the rest of the year.  Other than skin type, the other big factor in choosing a cleanser should be texture.  Some prefer a gel or foam while others prefer a lotion.  There are also solid cleansing bars and cleansing wipes for people on the go.  Here are a few of my favorites.

Lush
Lush makes several excellent cleansers.  For those who aren't familiar with Lush, this is an amazing all-natural skin and body care brand.  Many of their products are freshly made in the shoppes, and most of their products are vegan.  Most importantly, Lush has a longstanding commitment to making their products without any animal testing.  But besides all that, their products are just plan good.  They feel good on the skin, they smell good, and they are affordable. You can order directly from Lush at www.lushusa.com or go to one of their many free-standing shoppes.  Some Macy's are now carrying the line as well.

Lush's Coalface is one of my all time favorites because it is an exfoliating cleanser in a solid bar that gives you an impeccable squeaky clean.  It's perfect for me during the summer when I'm feeling grimy after a long day in the sun.  It is made with charcoal, and it is as black as coal.  It also contains licorice root, which is a natural antibacterial.  Consequently, this cleanser is ideal for those with acne-prone, oily, or combination skin.  I would not recommend this for those with dry or sensitive skin, however, since the exfloliants in the bar can be a bit rough.  I don't typically use this every day myself.  I like to rotate it with a more gentle cleanser.  If you're not into the bar-cleanser, you can also get the same stuff in a cream with exfoliating black sugar mixed in, which is called Dark Angels.  Each of these are about $11 online, although the price in the shoppes will vary since they're made in the shop and cut into pieces and then weighed for price.  Both of these cleansers are vegan.
 
For those with normal to dry, dry, or sensitive skin, I would recommend Lush's Angels on Bare Skin, a much gentler cleanser.  It is sold as a slice of a roll, which is a slightly solid creamy cleanser.  It's made with lavender and rose oils, which sooth the skin and provide a very gentle exfoliation.  If you tend to have lots of allergies and skin-sensitivities, Lush's Aqua Marina with calamine is another great cleanser.  These cleansers also run about $11 and are vegan products.


Aveeno
Aveeno makes some truly great affordable cleansers.  Positively Radiant is a fantastic lotion cleanser that is designed to give your skin a radiant glow.  It's very gentle and suitable for most skin-types but it's especially great for normal to dry or dry skin.  The creamy lotion feels fantastic on the face, and my skin always feels clean and nourished afterward.  It's very hydrating for dry skin.  You can find this at virtually any drugstore or online at www.drugstore.com or www.ulta.com.  It's a bargain at $7, and it's often on sale at the drugstores.

Cetaphil
For those with ultra-sensitive skin or anyone who is looking for the ultimate value in a cleanser, you can't do much better than Cetaphil.  They make it in both the bar and a creamy lotion in a pump now.  It's great for virtually all skin-types, and it's especially great if you have sensitive skin or acne-prone skin.  They make it in several different formulations now too, some of them specifically for sensitive, dry, or oily skin.  Although dermatologists and industry-insiders have been using and recommending the original formula for years to all skin-types.  It's a fantastic, affordable, reliable product.  Personally, I like the bars but the lotion is also great.

St. Ives
St. Ives's classic Apricot Scrub is one of my all time favorite beauty products.  It's a wonderful exfoliator with natural exfoliants.  And it's very inexpensive.  It's a dry scrub, which means it's in a cream base rather than an oil base. It's fantastic as a weekly or biweekly face scrub, but I also love to use it on dry patches like my knees.  Unlike the Lush products, this is not a two-in-one cleansing product, so I would still recommend using another gentle cleanser like Cetaphil or Aveeno first. The original formula is really great for all skin types, but like Cetaphil, St. Ives is now making this scrub in several formulas for different skin-types.  You can even get a formula of the Apricot Scrub for acne-prone skin that has salicylic acid to help with breakouts.  Likewise, they make a gentler creamier formula for dry skin.

Estee Lauder
Estee Lauder makes some fantastic cleansers, but with so many great drugstore options, I tend to think that they are too expensive.  I used them often when I was working for the company as a makeup artist and received free product, and they're great.  However, now I'm looking for more cost-effective alternatives.  I like to invest my money in eye cream and treatments, but I generally feel that the more expensive cleansers are not exponentially better.  However, one Lauder product that is worth the investment is a deep exfoliator called Idealist Dual-Action Refinishing Treatment.  This product was originally called Micro-D, and it was designed to be a lighter at-home version of micro-dermabrasion, but it was recently reformulated and improved to give you the benefits of both a micro-dermabrasion and a glycloic peel.  It warms on your skin with water, which opens up those pores.  Then the ultra-fine exfoliating spheres get deep in there and clean out those pores and banish any rough or dry patches.  This product is somewhat abrasive definitely not for every day, but it's far less abrasive than micro-dermabrasion or glycolic acid treatments while offering similar results.  I also would not recommend it for sensitive skin.  But if you're skin is oily, normal.combination, or dry, you can use this once every week or two for instantly smoother and brighter skin.  It's more of an investment at $49, but you'll feel like you just had a $100 facial, and the tube tends to last about 6 months if I use it once a week, which is not bad.  This is definitely a good one to add to your skincare arsenal.

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